Journey across northern Spain on foot along the Camino de Santiago

By Vic Parsons, THE CANADIAN PRESS

The Camino de Santiago has a way of humbling the proud. My feet had been trouble-free until the halfway point of the 800-kilometre trail, that runs from the French border across the mountains, valleys and plains of northern Spain.

Most fellow travelers had experienced foot problems, some serious enough to make them quit the journey to the city of Santiago de Compostela. Well, I mused, am I genetically superior to these, my hobbling comrades?

Now came my comeuppance. Outside Sahagun, on the broad plain called the Meseta, pain surged up my right foot from the big toe to the ankle. I was forced to the nearest clinic to deal with an infection.

The next day, thanks to a quick and free fix from a Spanish doctor, I was able to carry on to the trail's end, a humbler and wiser person.

Foot pain and other trials aside, few, if any, who complete one of the world's great treks regret the experience.

The Camino is not for everyone. But if you want to see Spain close up, crave a physical challenge and enjoy meeting people from all over the world, this could be for you. Not everyone will have time to do the whole trail in one go, but you can walk sections of it, as many Europeans do.

Christian pilgrims have endured the journey for over a thousand years but, before that, the Romans used the road to extend and maintain their empire and the Celts walked this way toward the setting sun and the supposed end of the world. With this history, it's not surprising that the Camino itself is a World Heritage site.

Today about 100,000 people a year, more on holy years, complete the walk. They come mainly from Europe but also from places as far apart as Nigeria and Korea. Many Canadians make the trek. When my wife and I walked, Canadians ranked only behind the Germans, French and Spanish in numbers.

In the tiny mountain village of Foncebadon, not only were we served supper by a volunteer waitress from Toronto, but the local bar owner proudly displayed a Canadian flag and Montreal Canadiens plaque on his wall.

The trail, marked by yellow arrows and scallop shells, is supposedly the route taken by disciples of St. James, Santiago in Spanish, when they carried his remains to the far reaches of the known world to protect them from discovery by hostile Roman authorities. His bones are said to be buried in the city that bears his name.

Today, people make the journey for many reasons - religious, spiritual, cultural, to meet people from other countries, or simply to see if they can do it.

"Everyone walks their own Camino," said Peter Schmitt of Sidney, B.C., whom we met on the third day of our walk.

Most pilgrims - peregrinos in Spanish - carry everything they need, except food, on their backs, which means travelers need to pack light.

Along the trail, there is a network of shelters called albergues or refugios, where you can stay the night, sharing accommodation with scores of others. Most are pretty basic, but if you prefer and are willing to go upscale, there are also private hostels and hotels along the way. The annual influx of Camino walkers is a great boon to the Spanish economy, so the locals are generally friendly, generous and helpful.

A typical day might start at 6:30 a.m., when you rise, pack and head out on the trail. We would take a break for coffee and breakfast after an hour, then carry on hoping to reach our daily target before the mid-day heat became too oppressive. We actually surprised ourselves with this routine, averaging more than 20 kilometres a day, and we were far from the fastest on the trail.

Despite the occasional grumble, you adapt to the pace. "Six kilometres to the next village?" said Helen Collins, a feisty young Irish lawyer we walked with for several days. "We scoff at six kilometres!"

After stopping sometime between noon and 2 p.m., we would rest, shower, wash clothes, and repair to a local bar for refreshment. A daily highlight was the opportunity to chat with fellow walkers. Or you see the local sights, before preparing for dinner. Most travellers were abed by 9 to 10 p.m.

OK. . . blisters, loud snoring by fellow travelers in dorms, up early, toting all your belongings on your back, sharing showers. Doesn't sound like a dream holiday. Are the pain and the trials worth it? Emphatically Yes!

Here's why: The Camino takes you across the Pyrenees, the range dividing France from Spain, either using a valley route traveled by Charlemagne where his friend Roland met his doom, or the spectacular road over the top taken by Napoleon, who'd learned from history. Then it is through the forested hills of the Basque country, and by mile after mile of vineyards and olive groves.

We stayed in a pensione in the tidy village of Burguete with its Napoleonic-era houses and a piano Hemingway played when he wasn't trout-fishing in local streams. We passed through the sparkling hilltop town of Cirauqui, surrounded by prosperous vineyards and complete with cobbled Roman road.

Then it was on to the golden plains of the Meseta (which resemble parts of Saskatchewan), and to the green hills of Galicia, called by some the "Ireland of Spain."

Along the way, we passed through Pamplona, where the running of the bulls occurs near the end of July each year; and the city of Burgos with its massive gothic cathedral - another World Heritage site - and the burial place of the Spanish hero, El Cid.

We ventured to the city of Santo Domingo, where chickens are kept in the church, a reminder of an old medieval legend. It's good luck if the rooster crows while you are in the church. (He obliged for us.)

Our favorite city was Leon, where we were fortunate to be when harvest celebrations began, and the townsfolk turned out in medieval or traditional costumes, often dancing to roving bands of clarinet, castanets, drum and bagpipes.

But the greatest gifts were the people met en route. Most were Camino friends - people you meet on the trail and walked with a few days. Others became fast friends and will be in touch again.

The Camino, after all, is a great equalizer. Whether you are a Dutch engineer, a Canadian restaurant owner, a retired Korean teacher or a young German aspiring actress, social status, age and wealth are not obstacles to sharing the common experience of the trail.

-

If You Go . . .

Getting there: From Paris, take the fast train to Bayonne. Then a one-hour slower train through the foothills of the Pyrenees to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port.

From Madrid, take a train to Pamplona, a bus to Roncesvalles, then a taxi to St-Jean.

Money: Spain uses the Euro, trading at about $1.55 Cdn for a Euro. Along the Camino there are many ATMs in the towns, most of which accept Canadian bank cards.

Where to stay: Many albergues are situated along the trail. These offer bunk beds, showers and washing facilities and many have kitchens. You share these with many other pilgrims. Nightly charges per person range from a simple donation to nine Euros (about $14).

If you want more privacy, there are pensiones and modestly priced hotels in the towns. It's heaven to be able to stretch out in a hot bath from time to time.

Meals: Many restaurants offer pilgrim menus from 7 to 9 p.m. These are cheaper than regular restaurant meals and range from seven to 10 Euros ($11-16). A typical pilgrim meal starts with soup or salad, then a meat-fish course with fries, and dessert. Good Spanish wine, is usually included. Spaniards have not yet caught on to the vegetarian agenda, but people we met often would ask for two first courses.

In Spain the main evening meal generally starts about 9 p.m. For Camino walkers who want to hit the trail early this is not convenient.

We stopped at bars for breakfast and carried food (bread, cheese, ham and olives) for lunch.

Walking light: Remember you are carrying everything with you. A good knapsack is essential: We were able to find sleeping bags weighing half a kilo, which helped keep our total pack weights down to about seven-nine kilos. You will also want to carry food and water with you during the day.

Foot care: This is vital. We carried duct tape to cover blisters and hot spots, and rubbed our feet every morning with Vaseline cream. Some scoff at the idea that duct tape is good for this purpose but many swear by it. One day we gave a young Brazilian with terrible blisters some tape. Two days later he passed us running, stopped and came back to thank us. Wool or other socks that wick away moisture and sturdy boots are a must.

Information: Check the Canadian Company of Pilgrims website (www.santiago.ca) for information. The company also issues credentials that you have stamped along the route if you want a certificate saying you completed the Camino.

Books: Many books have been written about the Camino. One guidebook carried by many English speakers is Walking the Camino de Santiago by Canadian-based authors Bethan Davies and Ben Cole, published by Pili Pala Press.