Maghreb faithful celebrate Ramadan

From cultural celebrations to prayers, people across the Maghreb are commemorating the holy month.

By Fidet Mansour in Algiers and Imrane Binoual in Casablanca for Magharebia – 26/08/11

On a hot August night in the Algiers neighborhood of Bab El Oued, worshipers finish Al-Ishaa and head to Atlas Hall to see Lounis Ait Menguellet sing of Amazigh culture, love of his homeland and the hopes of an entire nation.

In 1990, opposition from extremists forced Linda de Suza to cancel a concert here. Twenty-one years later, the atmosphere for this August 13th Ramadan concert is totally different. Ait Menguellet will perform before a capacity audience. None of the spectators will be disturbed.

It is more than one show, one city or one venue. The same thing is happening all over Algeria. Ramadan evenings are once again a time for cultural activity.

To provide a broad range of recreational options, Algerian radio launched an innovative program this year: "the medina", a culture and arts village open from 9pm to 3am. The Medina boasts a 5,000-seat theater, a kheima (tent), an open-air cinema, a beach soccer pitch, a beach volleyball court, a bookshop, an art gallery, an internet area, a video games and snooker area, an ice-rink, restaurants, even toboggans and trampolines for children.

"I must say, the atmosphere in this village is overwhelming for us. There's something for everyone and especially for people of all ages," says Karim Maghni, an Algerian who returned from the US to his homeland for Ramadan. He brought his young family to see the medina.

The fun extends past Algiers. From music in Annaba's music festival to theater in Kabylie, the country is alive with cultural events.

Despite the evening fare, the days are still very long, complains teacher Kheir Eddine. "During the holy month, you're virtually forced to stay at home."

Since many Algerians struggle to while away the swelteringly hot days, state television is broadcasting special programs for Ramadan. Audiences are large, even though "the programs don't live up to our expectations", says Zohra, a student. This year, the main talking-points are Libya, Yemen and the trial of Hosni Mubarak.

After iftar, however, Algiers becomes a city that never sleeps.

Even older Algerians stay up. Under a full moon, on the terraces of the Kasbah and in living rooms, they recite short poems.

"We recite boqala until dawn around a table laden with traditional cakes and tea," says Soltana, who is in her seventies. "Our daughters and granddaughters focus on the television and internet instead of keeping up these traditions, which are part of our national heritage."

Moroccans mark Laylat al Qadr

Laawachir, the last ten days of Ramadan, is always a festive time in the Maghreb, but Friday (August 26th), is particularly special.

The eve of the 27th day of Ramadan is Laylat al Qadr (the Night of Destiny, when, according to Muslim belief, the gates of Heaven open). It is said that wishes made sincerely can be granted. This is why many men and women pray twice as much as usual on this holy night, spend as much time as they can reading the Qur'an and increase the amount of zakat (charity) they give away.

In Casablanca, people flock to mosques to recite ichae and tarawih prayers until dawn.

"To sustain worshipers during this long night, volunteers bring plates of couscous that are served during breaks. This is something I have done ever since I was young," says Haj Mohamed, who is in his sixties. "Worshipers also like to visit different mosques in order to stop fatigue setting in and gain the greatest possible ajr (reward)."

Children fasting for the first time also choose the eve of the 27th of Ramadan so that they can be spoiled by their parents. They are served a well-garnished ftour.

"The event is celebrated with one's family. For girls, we bring out nakacha to decorate the hands of young fasters with henna. They are also given pretty kaftans to wear," Malika Mrizak, who has three children, tells Magharebia.

With Eid just around the corner, housewives across the region bake cakes, family heads buy corn to give away as zakat and every kissariat (a kind of shopping area) becomes a hive of activity.

Tailors and sellers of beldi djellabas are inundated with customers who come to try on or buy clothes. The last week of Ramadan is a lucrative time for bakers and cake shops. For Eid, families must have cakes, msaman and baghrir ready for guests who come to wish them "mabrouk laawachir" (happy festival), so they need to stock up.

In the run-up to Eid, family heads gather items to give away as zakat al-fitr. Many go to agricultural markets to buy corn. Just after adan al-fajr, beggars, neighbors and local poor people ask for zakat. They bring a cart in which they take away the goods they receive. Even the nafar (a kind of town crier who wakes people up before dawn) comes knocking on doors on the Night of Destiny to receive zakat.

People also take time to remember relatives who have passed away.

They buy rose water from guerrabas to sprinkle on the tombs they visit, and lay flowers in remembrance. At cemeteries, traders see a surge in business during laawachir (the last ten days of Ramadan), selling dried figs, flowers and clay objects to decorate graves, and beggars come to benefit from the kindness of visitors.

Tolbas offer their services to those who want to read the Qur'an beside a grave. Because of the rise in demand during laawachir, tolbas come from small towns and rural areas to make money. They sleep outside cemeteries and await customers.

Sorcerers also take advantage of the last ten days of Ramadan to indulge in mystic practices many find questionable. "Some mouchaawidine bring a rotten egg that they bury in holes close to graves," one cemetery warden tells Magharebia. "Others bring photos that they wrap up in pieces of tissue and throw away in the cemetery."

Source: Magharebia.
Link: http://www.magharebia.com/cocoon/awi/xhtml1/en_GB/features/awi/reportage/2011/08/26/reportage-01.